2018 — Goin' South (Where It's Hot!)

OFMC 2018 route

Dennis, Bill, and Friggs took off together early in the day, while Ken and Brett came along later. This is the first year without John, and the smallest group in quite awhile. The start was a bit inauspicious, too, as Ken managed to drop his V-Strom at home while packing. Just hope that's the worst of the trip over with already.

The first day's stop was Lake San Isabel, at the Lodge at San Isabel, where one cabin was sufficient for all five as long as someone (Ken) doesn't mind sleeping on the couch. On the way there, however, Bill and Dennis got separated from Friggs so when they reached the turn-off at CO 165 they waited. Friggs was playing Mr. Oblivious, however, and blasted right past them, sending Bill in pursuit, generally at speeds he deemed hazardous on this twisty road. He was not happy when he finally caught up with his brother.

Inn at San Isabel Brett and Ken also stopped at this intersection, to put on warmer gear, as the temperature had dropped enormously. Also stopped putting on more gear was a group of guys on four Harley rat bikes, who we would see again later.

Everyone was feeling good being launched on the trip and the forest setting was a nice start.

In the morning, as we waited for the restaurant to open for breakfast, the rat bikes showed up, now numbering seven. It was more than strange to watch them reaching down to their left to shift gears as they rolled in. Now we got a chance to get a good look and marvel at the old, beat-up machines. Not what we would choose to ride on but to each his own.

After breakfast it was on south on 165 to I-25 and south over Raton Pass. South of Raton we turned onto U.S. 64 up through a recently charred Cimarron Canyon to Eagle Nest, stop for lunch, and on to Angel Fire. Nothing much to do in Angel Fire except have dinner and kick back with some beverages.

Friggs and Brett on Emory Pass The next morning, setting the tone for the whole trip, we did the amazing thing of getting going early so as to beat the heat. At 8 a.m. we rolled out of Angel Fire and down the wonderful narrow, twisty, steep two-lane (at times almost one-lane) road that goes through the mountains down to Las Vegas. We'd been on this road before but it was just as nice the second time. We'll see what it's like the third time, as the state has already started making some "improvements" along the route. Improvements are in the eye of the beholder.

After Las Vegas it was mostly just blasting to cover miles, while the temps got hotter and hotter. Drivers on these New Mexico roads just laugh at the 55 mph speed limits and we were continually passed by people going about 80-90. And then there was the crazy man who passed some of us but couldn't get around us all before an oncoming car presented itself. Rather than pulling in amongst us, however, this nut just held the oncoming lane and forced the other guy onto the shoulder. For a moment it looked like we were going to witness an outright slaughter. People are insane.

Nearing Ruidoso we got up higher where it wasn't quite so hot and then it was a matter of getting to the casino/resort. Ken, in the lead, was approaching a sharply angled junction on a slope and was turning his head way, way to the left to look for traffic when he just dropped the bike. Fortunately, no damage and there were buddies right there to help him get it right back up. OK, maybe that's the worst of the trip. Fingers crossed.

Friggs post crash The Inn of the Mountain Gods got a big thumbs up from us as they served complimentary margaritas as we registered. On this very hot day this was an exceptionally nice touch. And the place didn't suck either. We had two nights here, with golf on the agenda. With just five, we all played together, with Bill school-marming us along to keep moving so we didn't hold up the foursome behind us. Nobody played their best golf but we all had a good time.

In the casino it was a little different. While Friggs and Dennis and Brett did their typical share of losing, Bill came up a winner--not an altogether unusual event--and Ken did, too. In fact, Ken won more on one 60-cent spin than he ever has in his life, and left the casino about $200 up.

Come time to leave we headed down the mountain toward Tularosa and Alamogordo and then across a long, hot stretch to Las Cruces. At this point we were only 35 miles from Ciudad Juarez/El Paso and Mexico and had we had our passports we could have taken the OFMC on its second international excursion. In the heat, however, and lacking passports, it was not even an option we discussed, so we headed north on I-25. At Caballo we turned onto New Mexico 152 and had lunch in a rustic little cafe in Hillsboro before going on to ride "The Snake," known as New Mexico's answer to the "Tail of the Dragon."

Friggs and helmet Then we hit the chip seal. From where 152 starts climbing, all the way to the top of Emory Pass, there was fresh chip seal. Some was so fresh we were told it was laid that very morning. What was intended to be a fun run through the twisties became a grueling trudge through the loose gravel. At the top we stopped for a break.

Moving on, however, we had good, smooth asphalt and it appeared the worst was over. It wasn't. The worst was right around the curve.

Friggs, in the rear, was downshifting into a curve and went down, with no idea later as to why. Just down. Bang. Dennis, in front of him, thought he heard something that did not sound good and when Friggs did not immediately appear from around the curve he turned back. He arrived just in time to see Friggs's bike lying in the road and Friggs dragging himself off the road. The two of them were not able to stand the bike up but a guy in a car was flagged down and the three of them succeeded. Meanwhile, Brett had figured something was wrong and had come back just in time to see them get it up. Riding in front, Ken noticed he did not see Bill behind so he slowed down. Bill showed up but was flashing his turn signal and they both pulled over. After waiting a couple minutes to see if the rest showed up, they turned back. The further they backtracked the more they dreaded coming around a curve and seeing something they really did not want to see, so they were relieved when Friggs went past and a few moments later Dennis and Brett went past. Bill and Ken turned around and everyone gathered at the spot Ken and Bill had stopped at.

Heading to Ouray The damage was not all that great, nor was Friggs badly hurt. Whereas he normally wears his riding jacket, he did not have it on this time and of course this was the time when he needed it. But the injuries were amazingly slight. What a relief. So we rode on into Silver City and checked into our hotel. Plenty to talk about this particular evening. Friggs was not even feeling particularly sore in the morning, which was the real shocker. Considering how torn up his clothes and boots were, and the damage to the bike, it seemed incredible. But hey, who's complaining.

We took off that morning headed north and west. It was great countryside and then we were into some hilly national forest areas. Early in the day we stopped at a tiny little place and found they had ice cream so 10 a.m. was ice cream hour on this day. Then we continued north and ran into more chip seal. This road was not all twisty like the one the day before but the chip seal went much longer. It's about 38 miles from Apache Creek to Quemado and we hit the chip seal after about 5 miles. This was where the work was going on where the overlay was the freshest. It got progressively better--more embedded with less loose stuff--as we went along and toward Quemade it had even been swept, although none of it had been striped yet. Ken explained that while planning the route he had consulted Chipseal.gov to find where all the work was planned so he could route us through as much as possible. Dennis noted that he had done a fine job in that regard.

Into Ouray The reward for this day's long, hot ride was the El Rancho in Gallup. Gallup is full of expensive chain motels on the one hand and scuzzy, sleep-in-your-leathers little dumps with only one thing in between: the El Rancho. This is a rustic, nicely cared for old place where the movie stars used to stay when they were shooting westerns nearby in Monument Valley. And the food was good in the restaurant, too. What's not to like?

Next day we blasted north to Shiprock, with nothing much to see along the way, although there was one peculiar spot where the four-lane divided highway was reduced to 15 mph because of a school zone. Really? From Shiprock it was east to Aztec, then north to Durango. And from Durango, the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray. More crazies here. We got behind a tanker truck and the impatient cagers behind us started passing the bikes on the clear sections and continuing around the tanker on blind, double-yellow curves. Totally insane.

We got to Ouray and found our motel and got the extensive list of what is and is not acceptable behavior at this establishment. Awhile later John showed up for his one night with the gang. Friggs immediately filled John in on his crash and that he had made up his mind not to ride anymore. John countered that he had thought about coming along in his truck but that didn't seem like a lot of fun. However, if Friggs were to join John in the truck they might both continue with the group and not miss out on the trips. Friggs liked that idea so next year may be our first as a mixed vehicle ride.

Group shot

The next morning, for once on this trip, we had no need or desire to get an early start so we slept in a bit. Saying good-bye to John, we did head out and got quickly to Gunnison, where we stopped for lunch. While we ate the weather changed and as we left Gunnison we found ourselves contending with high winds and powerful blasts trying to push us off the highway. Plus, at times there was enough dirt in the air you could hardly see to ride. We outran the weather, though, and made it up the valley to the mountain and started up Monarch Pass. It was getting cold at this point and coming over the pass the weather ahead looked worse. But by the time we blasted down to Poncha Springs it was clear the bad weather had gone on ahead of us. Bill and Friggs and Brett turned off to visit friends and relations while Dennis and Ken went on to Buena Vista and got checked in. A good barbecue dinner followed by a walk for some ice cream ended the day, with a friend from Salida joining the group for the evening.

Come Saturday morning it was just a short ride home but the weather was questionable. A short ride to get gas convinced us we needed more layers and then it was off for Fairplay. By Fairplay it was clear more warmth was needed so we stopped one last time and added layers. Then we rode on. Past Conifer Dennis peeled off and at C-470 Ken went straight and the rest turned north. One more ride was over.

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