2005 — Three to California on Trip 1

Randy and Johnathon left Denver early on Saturday morning, June 11, 2005. Taking the two-lane US 285 southwest to the junction with US 50, they stopped for some spirited go-cart racing in Poncha Springs. Arriving in Montrose wet and cold after crossing Monarch Pass and the rains in Gunnison, they spent the first night out at Big John’s place.

The next morning the threesome headed northwest on US 50 to pick up the ride west on the superslab, I-70 in Grand Junction. After two different traffic stops to clean up major auto accidents, a more cautious and timid OFMC pointed their headlights toward California and got on it. After a long ride against the wind the second overnight was in Salina, Utah, just off the interstate.

Monday, June 13, they left the interstate highway and continued west on US 50, crossing the Great Basin en route to Ely, Nevada (see photo). The Nevada Hotel in old downtown Ely is almost a destination in itself. Very reasonable rates for antique furnished Victorian rooms, a great restaurant, and a fun casino make the Nevada Hotel a great stop for cruising bikers. Note too that they gave us bikers preferred parking just outside the front doors where a doorman keeps an eye out all night. We didn’t lose too much in the casino and had a much needed good time after the trauma filled beginning.

Tuesday morning we left Ely coursing southwest on US 6 to Tonopah. The policeman that we encountered at the gas station before leaving Ely told us that there was no gas between Ely and Tonopah, so we purchased two one-gallon gas cans full of fuel and began our trek. Contrary to the advice we were given, about 75 miles southwest of Ely we found “Black Rock Station,” a sometimes open little gas station convenience store in the middle of nowhere (call ahead at 775-863-0119). We filled up again and enjoyed our ride through some of the gorgeous mountains and vast desert plains of Nevada.

We turned west on CA 120 in Benton, California. This highway is a shortcut to the western side of Yosemite National Park. All three of us thought that this road may be the very best motorcycle road we had ever been on, and remember we live in Colorado, home of some of the greatest. Besides the scenic sweepers and tight twisties found on most mountain roads, CA 120 has some of the best rollercoaster hills ever, making even this old biker giggle like a little girl. This fantastic road took us to the small town on the edge of Mono Lake and Yosemite Park, Lee Vining. We had a good night at the Best Western.

We had hoped to cross Tioga Pass in Yosemite Park on Wednesday morning but CA 120 west was still closed for the winter. Heading north on US 395, we would have to cross the Sierra Nevada Range on CA 108, Sonora Pass (see photo). We backtracked east on CA 120 into the Yosemite Valley where incredible views of enormous waterfalls were accompanied by traffic jams and intense heat. Still can’t figure out why California can’t open 9,941-foot Tioga pass by mid-June, when Colorado opens 10,758-foot Trail Ridge Road through Rocky Mountain National Park by Memorial day every year. We stopped overnight in the Indian Casino in Coarsegold, CA, just south of Yosemite on CA 41.

Thursday we rode CA 41 all the way to Morro Bay on the Pacific coast. Passing Fresno and the Central Valley, dotted with vast fields of almonds, avocados, and the like, we were happy to encounter the coastal hills. We dropped down to sea level at the town of Morro Bay, where the giant rock guards over this quaint fishing village with a bent for tourists (see photo). We checked into a nice motel overlooking the water.

On our way down to the shore we met Denzel Washington. He and his wife had just checked into a room near ours and he was now standing in the motel parking lot checking out our motorcycles. We had the familiar conversation that traveling bikers always have with interested husbands on a trip with their wife. You know; “Yeah, I used to ride” or “Boy, I would go with you in a heartbeat if …” or “How long you out; where ya from, where ya headed?” We had a great dinner and drinks at a café on the water, where we watched splashing seals in the bay and listened to some fine music at open mic-night at “The Otter” bar. Particularly mesmerizing was a teenager named Jimmy who played the guitar like Hendrix. Randy was so enamored with the beautiful costal village of Morro Bay that he intends to retire there someday!

Friday, June 16, was the day we had been waiting for, one of us for nearly 40 years. The clerk at the motel had given us some old towels to wipe the morning fog off the bike seats. She told us that we could expect fog most of the way up the Coastal Highway. We awakened, however, to a bright sunny day and recognizing our immense good fortune, we wasted no time getting on the bikes for a ride north on the famous Pacific Coast Highway 1. We all knew that it just doesn’t get any better than this.

All day the fog lay just a half mile off shore like a fluffy layer of cotton between the sea and the deep blue sky on the Pacific horizon. St. Urgis, patron saint of bikers (thanks Ken), was watching over us today. We made numerous stops along the coast to marvel at the scenery (see photo). We had reserved a tent-cabin in Big Sur and after some fireside partying, enjoyed a restless night in sleeping bags under a giant redwood (see photo).

A short ride north on CA 1 to San Francisco gave us the time to explore this great city. With appropriate motorcycle club discounts we scored an upscale hotel in town. We paid highly for a single on-site parking spot where we could fit all three bikes. Using the keycard, Johnathon opened the parking gate and proceeded to the upper level spot. Thinking the gate would stay open for all three of us Big John gunned it just as the gate lowered. Crashing through the stripped barrier, wood and plastic flying, brought a running parking attendant, concerned for Big John’s safety. No problem; California has a helmet law. John’s head was better protected than the barrier. After a tour of the city in a VW minibus with cousins Simon and Chris, we played around Fisherman’s Wharf, before riding the trolley back to the hotel.

Sunday morning, June 18, Father’s Day, we were once again, contrary to warnings from locals, greeted with a bright sunny day. The first sound of the day was Randy calling his dad on the phone to wish him a happy Father’s Day. Careful to leave town in the right direction as this was also the day of the great San Francisco Gay Pride Day and we certainly didn’t want to be part of that big parade, we headed straight for the Golden Gate Bridge. With only a few wisps of fog clinging to the towers, we crossed the bridge in a golden sunshine (see photo). Big John and son Johnathon shared an irreplaceable magic moment on that great Father’s Day ride. We hugged the coast, through Bodega Bay north to Stewart’s Point. There on a poorly marked narrow paved road, we crossed over the Coastal Range to Healdsburg in the heart of the California wine country of Sonoma and Napa valleys. The Best Western motel had complimentary bottles of wine. We all enjoyed the fruits of this fine place; Randy maybe a bit too much. Gee, can he snore when he has had too much wine.

Monday morning we wandered through towns like Calistoga, Yuba City, and Grass Valley on CA 20 and CA 49 to Auburn, CA. There we were given shelter and a fine evening of celebration with cousins Kevin and Terra. It was Johnathon’s turn for overindulgence and he slept where he fell.

Johnathon appreciated the short ride on Tuesday where we only got as far as South Lake Tahoe. We rode the scenic west shore of Lake Tahoe to Harrah’s Casino Hotel. Taking an upgrade room, we enjoyed the fine food and the top shelf martinis, Big John a bit too much. Everybody gets a turn in the OFMC. In his happy state Big John also enjoyed a big jackpot and bought dinner.

Wednesday, June 21, we rode the famous US 50, “the loneliest road in America,” across the Nevada desert. We arrived tired and hungry at the Nevada Hotel ready for one last night of debauchery. Big John was hot and after winning $150 in Lake Tahoe proceeded to hit a Double Diamond jackpot for nearly $500 at the Nevada. Most of the trip paid for, Big John was ready for home.

Like rental horses returning to the stable at the end of a day of toting around tourist with few horse-riding skills, the three of us rode hard on US 50 and I-70 all the way to Green River, Utah. Ray’s Tavern, in the older part of Green River, serves a fine steak dinner and we indulged while reminiscing about all the great fortune we had enjoyed on this ride. We decided that the theme for the 2005 Pacific Coast ride was “It just doesn’t get any better than this!”

On Friday, June 23, after 14 days on the road, we raced for home, Big John south to Montrose and Johnathon and Randy east on I-70 to Denver. We would all like to do this ride again but we all know that it just doesn’t get any better than this!

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